"Eating Ass"
Let’s play a game. I tell you a word and you tell me the
first thing that comes to mind. Here goes: chicken.
If you are like me, you said “food”. Or perhaps “wings”
(also food). Or perhaps “sandwich” (more food). Possibly even “eggs” (still
food). No matter your background, no matter your culture, it is a universal
truth: sauteed or fried, boiled or baked, when someone says “chicken”, you
think of a good meal.
But while you may be into wings or drumsticks, breasts or
feet, there is another part of this particularly delicious bird that's worth
mentioning: the ass. Better known as phao câu, these savory morsels of
goodness are sometimes discounted by local diners, but as is true of all street
food specialties, it's all about where you go.
A small, dingy spot in Binh Thanh District, Ga Nuong Anh
Tuyet has a reputation for serving up some fine chicken ass. The place is
pretty standard: roadside barbecue, no air-con and a constant buzz of activity
right outside. The staff are young, the chairs are tiny and the grill is
practically on the street.
We were the only customers when we arrived. The staff stood
by the barbecue slicing vegetables in preparation for the evening rush. Our
order included phao câu, duck tongues, grilled okra and barbecued squid.
It didn’t take long to get the food and after some picture-taking, we dug in.
For me, it was a tie between the phao câu and the
grilled squid; both were excellent. Thanks to the barbecue, the former is crispy
and firm on the outside and fatty and tender on the inside. No cartilage, no
bones, just piping hot and delicious. The squid was also a hit: not too chewy,
and with the green chili sauce, utterly delicious.
As for the duck tongues, I am still confused as to the
anatomy of a duck because there was a bone attached. How does that work? Apart
from logistics, there wasn't much meat to enjoy here, so I give it a pass.
The okra, however, was a worthy supplement to all of the
greasy barbecue we consumed along with a few ice-cold beers. All told, Ga Nuong
Anh Tuyet makes for a top-notch nhậu spot and well worth a visit. If
you're especially squeamish, there are always wings available, but it's better
to be open-minded; the phao câu might surprise you.
If you liked this review, be sure to read my other ones.
Originally Published on Saigoneer.
